Warren Gatland’s side proved every bit a match for the All Blacks, the two-time defending world champions, in a compelling three-match Test series that lived up to its billing and then some. After defeat in the first Test at Eden Park, the Lions bounced back in Wellington – as they had done in 1993. They then returned to Auckland and drew the third and final Test. That meant the Test series was squared for only the second time in Lions’ history, joining the fabled 1955 Tour to South Africa. Alongside that dramatic Test series, a thrilling set of non-Test matches and a richly rewarding series of cultural events added up to a once-in-a-lifetime experience for the Lions players, the support staff and the thousands who travelled to lend their support. But to chart how the Lions matched the All Blacks, first we must go back to December 2016 when Gatland was asked to take on the position of Head Coach once again.
Having led the Lions to an historic series win in Australia in 2013 – the Lions’ first in 16 years – a return to his native New Zealand was an altogether different challenge. Gatland embraced it, re-calling many of the same coaching group that did the job in 2013 but adding fresh voices to the mix as well. Andy Farrell’s defence would only concede 16 tries across ten games, Rob Howley’s backs conjured some of the greatest tries the Lions have ever scored, while Steve Borthwick’s forward pack earned the respect of observers and opponents alike. Upon arriving in New Zealand, the tone was set with a traditional Maori welcome and pōwhiri challenge at Auckland International Airport. Demonstrating the unison already established amongst Gatland’s men, Welsh hooker and choirmaster Ken Owens leading led the squad’s response with their rendition of Calon Lan. And the Lions were quick to establish even greater links with their hosts as they undertook a series of community visits in North Auckland following their first captain’s run.
The squad took time out of their busy schedule to visit seven schools, three hospitals and two retirement homes on their way to Whangarei ahead of the Tour’s opener. In addition to receiving gifts and an exceptionally warm reception, the Lions answered questions from schoolchildren and met residents at a pair of retirement villages. The Tour proper began against the New Zealand Provincial Barbarians at Toll Stadium. As had been the case in many a previous Tour, the Lions were pushed all the way first time out by a committed opposition team but eventually emerged 13-7 victors. From there the squad headed to Waitangi Treaty Grounds for their official welcome at the birthplace of New Zealand as a nation. It was a spine-tingling day as, in glorious sunshine, more than 400 warriors, mainly Ngāpuhi, both male and female, received the Lions with a spectacular Pōwhiri. During the welcome, the tourists received three challenges. The first, in front of ceremonial war canoe Ngātokimatawhaorua, was a private challenge for the Lions squad with the wero - or ceremonial spear - accepted by Tour Manager John Spencer. “It was an absolutely fantastic ceremony and a wonderful welcome by the Maori people here,” said Spencer. “It couldn’t have been a better day for it, and we have great respect for their traditions, for their culture, their language, their heritage – which started here of course, their haka and of course their harmonies. “It has been an absolute privilege. This is not a ceremony that has been extended to very many people. “We were determined to come here and show our respect and our friendship – two of the Lions core values.”
Following the first challenge, the Lions made their way to the crest of the hill on the Treaty Grounds and, with thousands of fans in attendance, faced down the second challenge. This time it was Tour Captain Sam Warburton who received the ceremonial wero. "We had quite a few Maori welcomes for the 2011 Rugby World Cup and Wales toured here last summer as well, but that was like nothing I have ever experienced before,” said the Wales flanker. “It was brilliant, and the day and the setting made it even more special. “Away from the field, that is probably one of the best experiences I have been able to have through rugby.” The third and final challenge was in front of Te Whare Rūnanga, before the 41-man playing squad and backroom staff were granted entry for ceremonial speeches and further traditional Hongi greetings. And the Lions choir, after hours of practice in training camp, delivered all four of their songs in fine style, with the Welsh hymn Calon Lan the real showstopper according to the skipper.
“The choir delivered, we were good in there,” added Warburton. “We have put a lot of practice in behind closed doors and it has been good fun from a bonding point of view and we have had a laugh. “But the guys have also actually really bought into it and from the English, Irish and Scottish boys point of view, to learn Calon Lan is really impressive. “The Welsh guys were thinking ‘Crikey, this is going to be difficult’, so to learn it and buy into it has shown how the lads have come together off the field. “We must have had at least 10-15 choir practices and hopefully paid off in there.” Next up was a first trip to Eden Park to take on the Blues of Auckland. In another hard-fought encounter, star backs Rieko Ioane and Sonny Bill Williams powered the hosts to a famous win. CJ Stander’s first-half try and the boot of Leigh Halfpenny had looked like they might be enough to hold off the Blues but in the end a classic Williams offload released a flying Ihaia West for a superb try and the Blues became the first-ever Kiwi Super Rugby franchise to defeat the Lions. Next the Lions travelled to the South Island where the Crusaders of Christchurch lay in wait. On arriving in the city, Tour Captain Warburton, Head Coach Gatland and Tour Manager Spencer were among a group of Lions representatives who paid their respects on behalf of the entire squad to the victims of the Christchurch earthquake by visiting the Canterbury Earthquake National Memorial. The group laid a wreath at the site which was created to remember the 185 who sadly lost their lives during the 6.3 magnitude earthquake which devastated the region in 2010 and 2011. On the field, the Crusaders were expected to provide one of the bellwether challenges of the Tour. Unbeaten all year and top of the table in Super Rugby – they would go on to claim the title in July – the Lions needed to produce their best at the AMI Stadium. And they delivered it with one of the stand-out performances of the Tour, a statement of intent that gave the group much-needed momentum with the pack creating a platform for a 12-3 victory.